So say the t-shirts worn by the “Red Devils”, as supporters of Korea’s national soccer team are known.  Particularly since co-hosting in 2002, the World Cup is a monumental event in South Korea.  Ah, I should take a moment to explain something to our mostly Yankee audience.  The “World Cup” is this big tournament featuring a sport called “soccer”.  Soccer, which so many nations have the gall to call “football”, is kind of like our football, only the ball is rounder, feet are actually used, the players are smaller, faster, and better at acting, but slightly worse at dancing.  Official explanation here.

Koreans’ interest in their national soccer team during the World Cup may not be unique, but their passion and methods of support certainly are.  While most Europeans and Americans happily watch the games at home or perhaps at a bar, Koreans prefer far less intimate venues.  Most Red Devils, all donning red shirts and red horns, gather in the tens of thousands to watch the games on JumboTrons.  These gatherings usually take place at sports stadiums, public squares, or, in our case, right here on Haeundae beach.  At first I was a little alarmed by such mass displays of support.  But I’ve come to see how they are representative of Korean culture in general.  Koreans tend to enjoy social, sporting, or other

activities as part of a large group.  This is so much the case that if you, for example, enjoy hiking alone, you’ll definitely stand out and likely be called a “loner” (which is not a compliment).  If you’re actually discovered alone on a hiking trail, you’ll be cajoled by others to join up with them.  Fortunately (?) for many travelers, you can expect similar treatment if you find yourself eating alone.

With the games being broadcast here at 11:00pm and 3:30am, I wasn’t too keen to host many World Cup parties or sit at a bar until 5:30am on a Wednesday morning.  But I was certain I had to join one of these mass gatherings.  The pictures posted with this blog give you a flavor for what it’s like to spend an evening with 30,000 screaming and cheering Devils.  Unfortunately, on this particular night Korea was simply out-played by South American powerhouse Argentina.  A week later, a far smaller crowd gathered again on the same beach, under wet skies, to watch their beloved Taeguk Warriors, as the team is known locally, get knocked out the tournament by Uruguay.  It was a sad night for Mindy and I too as the USA couldn’t keep up with quick and powerful Ghana.  

If you aren’t a fan of the World Cup by now, all is not lost.  The semifinals and final are still to be played and promise to be exciting, fast-paced, and probably a little controversial.  If soccer itself isn’t your thing, much like it isn’t for many here, just focus on the cheering.  Better yet, wait four years till the next World Cup when you can join up with your local chapter of Red Devils.  By then you’ll have watched the below video enough and can cheer along.  

Dae~~han Min-guk!